Panama's sinking islands

The island of Carti Sugtupu lies a mere 1,200 metres off the north coast of Panama. Surrounded by the azure waters of the Caribbean, the houses jostle cheek by jowl, some jutting out into the sea on stilts.

Home to some 2,000 indigenous Guna residents, living there is characterised by hardship, with the absence of basic public amenities, potable water and private lavatories existing only in the form of communal facilities. The island dwellers eke out a living by fishing, harvesting crops such as cassava and plantains and from traditional textile crafts and tourism.

Nevertheless, change looms on the horizon as they prepare for relocation to the mainland. Magdalena Martinez eagerly anticipates this transition.

Magdalena Martínez: "We want a home where we can live with dignity, with electricity 24 hours a day, with drinking water all day long, because here we have to collect water from the rivers. So, it would be a good thing for us. But there's also the cost. Here, we pay nothing."

The climate crisis has deemed relocation essential given Carti Sugtupu and other islands in the San Blas Archipelago are under threat by rising sea levels.

Steven Paton's a researcher at the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute.

Steven Paton: "This is an example of one of the islands. It was at an altitude of only half a metre, but with the current sea level rise, this island will not last longer than 20 or 30 years, at the most."

Significantly delayed, plans to relocate 300 families to the mainland have finally been declared by the Panamanian government to take place in early 2024. A newly constructed neighbourhood, equipped with a school, is in the works, and teacher Braulio Navarro expresses his delight.

Braulio Navarro: "Oh, I've been waiting for it for a long time. Yes, I'm happy, I'm happy! I want to move quickly. Yes, it's true because I know we will be better off there. I know it will be a bit difficult at first, but little by little we will get used to it. That's what I think. Yes, I'm happy."

Although relocation is welcomed with open arms, the Guna people remain concerned about the erosion of their traditions. Nevertheless, Magdalena Martinez firmly believes that the indomitable spirit of their island heritage will endure.

Magdalena Martínez: "Yes, this will change our lifestyle quite a bit. But I want to make it clear that it won't change our spirit, it won't change our habits, it won't change our way of being."

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